{"id":2828,"date":"2013-05-12T22:37:33","date_gmt":"2013-05-12T19:37:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/azzaman.info\/wordpress\/2013\/05\/12\/adrienne-arsenault-a-different-kind-of-beach-day-in-mauritania\/"},"modified":"2013-05-12T22:37:33","modified_gmt":"2013-05-12T19:37:33","slug":"adrienne-arsenault-a-different-kind-of-beach-day-in-mauritania","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.azzaman.info\/?p=2828","title":{"rendered":"Adrienne Arsenault: A different kind of beach day, in Mauritania"},"content":{"rendered":"<p> \tWe knew we&#8217;d need to take a moment to just stop and soak it all in.<img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Adrienne Arsenault\" src=\"http:\/\/www.cbc.ca\/gfx\/images\/news\/authorbio\/2013\/01\/29\/adrienne-arsenault140x210.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<p> \tFor just over a week now, producer Stephanie Jenzer, videographer Ed Middleton and I were in Mauritania on the trail of the Canadian high school students who came to the desert from London, Ont., and found trouble in the form of murder, death and, for one, jail.<\/p>\n<p>  <!--more-->  <\/p>\n<p> \tStrangers &mdash; they and we &mdash; in a place where the people are gracious and the land hard.<\/p>\n<p> \tIt is virtually treeless now, and the sandy earth makes it hard to grow enough food to sustain the<\/p>\n<p> \tpopulation.<\/p>\n<p> \tLike many African nations rich in mineral resources, it is shocking to see how little of that wealth seems to<\/p>\n<p> \treach the population. This is, after all, a country where nearly 17 per cent of its national income is based on economic aid.<\/p>\n<p> \tWe found it scorchingly hot and blindingly bright, and the story we were pursuing was equally as harsh, at times flat-out dangerous.<\/p>\n<p> \t<a href=\"http:\/\/www.cbc.ca\/news\/world\/story\/2013\/05\/09\/canadian-worked-algeria-gas-plant-attack.html\">Canadian attacker worked at Algerian gas plant<\/a><\/p>\n<p> \tSo we needed a moment to stop, to experience something different visually and emotionally.<\/p>\n<p> \tWe needed the fish market.<\/p>\n<p> \tWhere the Sahara meets the Atlantic<\/p>\n<p> \tThere are few places in Mauritania where enterprise and enthusiasm are more visible than Nouakchott beach, the shoreline arm of the capital city, teeming with life, human and otherwise.<\/p>\n<p> \tWe are TV types, of course, so we chose to stand on that Nouakchott fish market at magic hour, the moment when the still-hot sun starts its slide into the horizon.<\/p>\n<p> \tThe light is delicious. And fishermen seem equally fond of it, as in that moment men pulled in their long wooden pirogues heaving with fish.<\/p>\n<p> \tThe fish are so plentiful you can see the oversized sardines crowding in the surf. Kids, barely breaking a sweat, bend over and scoop them up with their hands.<\/p>\n<p> \tWomen cooked up fresh offerings by the surf and strong young boys hauled crates of fish from the boats right to the waiting trucks and cars and off to market.<\/p>\n<p> \tWe ridiculous outsiders stood slack-jawed at this cacophony of enterprise in front of us.<\/p>\n<p> \tEasy targets maybe for the curious, and the criminal, unfortunately.<\/p>\n<p> \tFirst the curious. Kids practically shoved by their parents to stand beside us so pictures could be taken of those of us who looked so out of place.<\/p>\n<p> \tThere were lots of tiny ones giggling. It&#8217;s always a good day when you can hang out with kids.<\/p>\n<p> \tThen, came the well-dressed man who marched smartly towards us in the sand. I thought for sure I was somehow about to get into trouble for something. It&#8217;s usually a safe bet.<\/p>\n<p> \tTurns out he just wanted to talk, about global politics and the economy.<\/p>\n<p> \tBetween the noise of the people and the waves and the need to watch for the occasional fish slurping out of a crate all around us, it was hard to keep up with the conversation.<\/p>\n<p> \tBut it eventually boiled down to a scathing indictment of several countries, Canada included, for appearing to help itself to Mauritania&#8217;s wealth while, in his view, giving so little back.<\/p>\n<p> \t&#8220;You can&#8217;t even be bothered to have a real embassy here,&#8221; he shouted over the din. &#8220;You only care about your mines here.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p> \tIt was a half-hour, largely one-sided discussion that would have been equally (or perhaps more) at home at a university.<\/p>\n<p> \tThen he was off with a hearty wave and a smile. His points made. Again and again.<\/p>\n<p> \tA wayward BlackBerry<\/p>\n<p> \tWe decided to head out, too, sufficiently relaxed, maybe too relaxed.<\/p>\n<p> \tBecause just as we were within eyesight of the car, a swift-fingered soul lifted Stephanie&#8217;s BlackBerry and bolted, melting into the crowd.<\/p>\n<p> \tA pro, like so many pros all over the world. Phone gone, we declared, it happens. But Mauritania had another surprise in store for us.<\/p>\n<p> \tWe told our tale to one of our local friends who had already performed miracles for us.<\/p>\n<p> \tWith an outsized look of horror she grabbed her own phone and said &#8220;I will fix this.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p> \tBut how do you fix something like that. It is not as if the guy will return the phone, we thought. &#8220;Don&#8217;t worry, it&#8217;s just a phone,&#8221; we said.<\/p>\n<p> \tBut she insisted and made a stunning flurry of ever-louder calls to who knows whom.<\/p>\n<p> \tBottom line? She found Stephanie&#8217;s phone!. She found a guy who knew a guy who had it.<\/p>\n<p> \tA quick rendezvous in a market and voila. The sim card gone, good battery replaced for a junky one, basically useless to us but it was the phone.<\/p>\n<p> \t&#8220;See!&#8221; she said. &#8220;We look after our guests in Mauritania&#8221;<\/p>\n<p> \tYes they do.<\/p>\n<p> \tcbc.ca<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We knew we&#8217;d need to take a moment to just stop and soak it all in. For just over a week now, producer Stephanie Jenzer, videographer Ed Middleton and I were in Mauritania on the trail of the Canadian high school students who came to the desert from London, Ont., and found trouble in the &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[15],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2828","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-15"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.azzaman.info\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2828","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.azzaman.info\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.azzaman.info\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.azzaman.info\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.azzaman.info\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2828"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.azzaman.info\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2828\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.azzaman.info\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2828"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.azzaman.info\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2828"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.azzaman.info\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2828"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}